Nagasaki - first time round..........

6^th July 2014

Home to Paul’s new (to him) car!!! See we remembered.

This city of 1.5 mil. has always been an important port for Japan with records going back to 1190. At times when Japan was closed to visiting trade the Portuguese and at times, the Dutch, could get goods through this port. With the influence of the Portuguese especially, Christianity was introduced here, with St Francis Xavier and the Jesuits making a huge impact on the populace. The conversion rate was such that it was seen as a threat and the banning of Christianity, persecutions and deaths ensued.

At Shimabara Castle – a classic Japanese Castle built high on a walled hill with a massive moat – there was a historical museum based on the 1637 Battle of Shimabara, the early Christian era, displays of swords and armour, cultural artefacts, and scripts concerning the early martyrs of the area, how they died and the fate of those who sheltered them. A good climb through five stories gave a fabulous view of “the kingdom” from where the Shogun could overlook the varying layers of his subjects, living in areas according to their use – warriors, farmers etc. It also showed the feudal type system they lived under, their taxation measured in rice which equalled about 150 kg per year, considered equal to the consumption of one person per year. Its correct term escapes me, as does the most basic language  at times! You understand……………

Only fitting then, that we then moved on, in the pouring rain I may add, to a Samurai Village where we went through a samurai house. People still live in the area today. The road is very narrow with a pure water spring feeding the little drain that runs down the middle of the road. This was the source of drinking and cooking water for the residents in days gone by. A constant query for the guide was a saloon car, not the usual compact, parked in a car port, begging the question, how they ever managed to get the vehicle out with the street only a matter of feet wide and a drain down the centre of it. The house was a typical Japanese style with a wooden floored and shuttered “veranda” all ‘round, tatami mats and sliding doors. All very efficient and sensible, except if you have trouble get up off the floor! Nowadays the verandas include a tiny bathroom beside the bedroom. The samurai were encouraged to plant fruit bearing trees and herbs in their tiny and beautiful gardens.

Next stop was a buried village. Still viewable where the ash has been cleared to expose some of the houses destroyed when Mt. Fugen erupted in 1991 – a memorial and a reminder of future possibilities! No locals died in the eruption but the press and some volcanologists were caught and paid the price of their obsession.

Just when I had psyched myself up for rice and miso for lunch – there were no pickles, no miso. This time two burners – one of which I left completely untouched due to the unrecognisable contents, we were told about waiting for the rice cake to soften but even then it was rather slimy so – arigatoo gozaimasu – but no; the second burner had some lovely pork in it so that was good; rice and soy is good; Chinese cabbage fine; then dessert!!! Lovely peach jelly – yum. But only a tiny tasty block!