Egypt and Jordan

We entered Egypt through the eastern port of Safaga; a mainly phosphate exporting town with Hurghada nearby – a resort town where the constant wind makes sailing and all kinds of water sports very popular. It’s on the Red Sea and apparently there are all kinds of corals and fish not usually found so far north. Cairo is less desirable so we were lucky to make landfall here. We chose the trip to the Valley of the Kings, a vast necropolis on the west bank of the Nile (and a very long drive – 3 hours each way). So far it has yielded 62 tombs including the fairly recent discovery of Tutankhamen. We went into three tombs; they alternate those open for viewing; there are also others in the process of excavation and the hope that there are innumerably more. Of course, the hawkers are there in force and I made a few purchases but most of our buying was easy and peaceful being on the bus enroute. Our guide was very knowledgeable but we have found you easily get confused by the thousands of years BC quoted and suffer information overload. We also visited the Temple of Luxor, on the east bank with an avenue of huge sphinxes, a red granite obelisk, gigantic columns and a vast history again, of kings and religions. I thought we were going to see a riot as things looked pretty fraught in a queue waiting for petrol. They can only get so much a month. As of the 1st July they can get 150 litres pr month at a subsidised price of about US50c and any more will cost US$1.50 pr litre. They are not happy campers. Of course they gesticulate and yell a lot; sounds pretty cross.

At Aqaba, Jordan, we visited the lost city of Petra. Here the works of nature were as fascinating as the works of man- the colours in the eroded towering cliffs just beautiful. A narrow canyon leads to what you would think was an ancient town, but due to the relevance of the next life as the everlasting life, vastly more time and wealth was lavished on that future dwelling than the current ones which had mostly tumbled down. Awesome tomb facades according to the standing of the future burialee and carved symbols of many and varied civilisations. There was a book and jewellery store run by the NZ woman who wrote the book “ I married a Bedouin” Her son was there that day and we had a brief chat with him. He studied in Nelson and Sydney and now seems to be driven by where is the most fun, but a nice enough young man; I can’t blame the woman for falling for the father if he was near as good looking as the son! The walk was touted as very strenuous and many were dubious as to their ability to make it. Fortunately the promised 35C didn't happen and the wind kept things quite cool at 28C, however 2/3 of the way out we took the offer of a horse each to ride – man that saddle was the absolute comfiest seat in the world!!The Bedouins own the area and we saw many of them in their tents on the hills as we bussed for a couple of hours each way to and from Petra. Jordan is beautiful – absolutely massive and biblical in its majesty. Shepherds watching their flocks by night; Jesus looking out over the city; all these things so easy to see; Aran’s tomb on a nearby mountain top; the area where Moses led his people and where he struck the rock and water gushed forth – awesome  sights all ‘round. Our guide described Jordan as a quiet house with noisy neighbours! A more gentle people, I think, than the Egyptians who are not at all happy with their present government. It truly is amazing, and rather unbelievable, to be popping in and out of all these countries with their varying customs and interesting ways, in an area where we think of wars and conflict; you can easily forget that there are ordinary people doing the ordinary things of day to day living and having the same struggles that everyone faces – children, education, health. We learned a little sign language in Jordan and I found it worked well with the hawkers. Not the kids though – “Make my day” “Closing down sale” “Happy hour” Then there were the showoff horsemen racing up and down between riders in the narrow canyon - keep your ears open and get to the side; the horses and carts touting for takers to have their bones shaken and the rest, mostly quite large people. Of course they go fast to drop one lot and pick up the next. The more trips the more money!! Hey Lynda – even camels to ride on. $5 to get on and $40 to get off!!!!

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